


This morning at breakfast in the hotel I had an epipheny. It was clear at this point that I would not be able to keep to my intended schedule and finish the ride as planned. Too many factors have been working against me and even though my wheels have been spinning I dont seem to be getting anywhere. So I am moving to my plan B, which is to do some sightseeing and enjoy the area. I have had very little opportunity to explore and I am actually kind of glad to have a change of pace even if it means I will not complete my trip as planned. I have been enjoying the countryside but the long days and riding well into the night have been taking their toll.
Fougeres is a very interesting town which most PBP riders will not get the chance to enjoy much of. There is a very old walled city at the heart of town that dates back more than 1000 years. The old part of town has wonderful churches and gardens to visit and there are many sidewalk cafes as well. After my recent involuntary diet regime I am particularly interested in the cafes!
I have a support crew on call for assistance and emergencies (my wife Sara and our host in France, Jos). I make the call and in a few hours they will join me for lunch. In the meantime I am able to cruise the town and get some riding in for the day. I have had the "Buzzard" with me for the whole ride as can be seen in some of the photos and I think he will also enjoy the change of pace. The area around Fougeres is kind of hilly and the streets are a maze. There are quite a few bike lanes here which kind of surprises me but I have seen some of these in the larger towns before. It is quite pleasant to cruise the town on a bike. I make a half hearted attempt to find the location of the controle from PBP but I have no luck. I continue my tour and soon I am distracted by something else anyway.
My personal support crew arrives just in time for lunch and we waste no time in finding a restaurant. It seems that in the larger towns food is much easier to come by, especially during lunchtime (Le Dejuener). Once we are well fed it seems natural to continue our touring on foot and so we hit the town again. There is much to see here but we limit ourselves to a radius within easy walking distance of the old walled city. In spite of the change of plans it is a good day!

So far things have not exactly gone according to plan. I am tying to adapt as I go but I am behind where I had expected to be on the route already. I was in Brest this morning but I expected to be in Carhaix which is about 95 kilometers away. That is going to make this a very long day! Brest is the starting city for the Tour de France this year and I had hoped to see some of the preparations for the event, but since I am behind schedule I will not have time to see much of it. I have seen some signs announcing route closures on my way but not too much otherwise.
I got breakfast in the hotel and set off again through town. Brest is a busy place and I see a large group of tents in town that are probably for the Tour. I don't have time to look around much however and I get started on the bike. Returning the same way I came the route finding should be a little easier for a while but I expect difficulties again later. I have not studied the TDF route for this year but it looks like I will cross it several times. I see more “route baree” signs for the Tour noting different closures days along the way. I will have to look at the official route later to see where it goes.
Back in Loudeac I find a market and stock up on supplies. There is also a bike shop here and I do need some things but it is closed. When I ask someone when it will open today they just laugh and tell me “of course it is closed, it is Monday!” Silly me, I should have known better. The bike is giving me a little trouble shifting and I wanted to get some CO2 cartridges as well. I have not been able to get any yet and repairing my flat tires takes much more time without them. All these little delays continue to add up and deduct from the mileage I can cover each day.
You have a narrow window when the shops are open to buy things in the little towns along the way. Even water is proving to be a challenge. I think that without 2 large water bottles and a Camelback I would have run out of water a couple of times. I am carrying a lot more food than I normally would as well. The route is very rural and if you run out of groceries in between large towns or if you arrive in the towns at the wrong time you will go hungry. Ask me how I know that!
Climbing back over Tintineac Mountain I see another sign for a route closure on the TDF route. It looks like they will be climbing over this mountain and past the huge antenna on the way. This is a landmark that most PBP riders will recognize. When I watch the tour I will look for it. After the descent into town I find a small restaurant to stop at. I have eaten all of my food and water and it is late in the day. I am able to get a sandwich and a beer but when I try and buy water I find only 1 liter available at the bar. I spend another half an hour looking for water in town but there is none available. Apparently I got the last bottle of water in Tintineac!
I continue on towards Fougeres where it is my plan to spend the night. Navigation continues to be difficult and I do at least an extra 15 kilometers of back-tracking and looking for the right route. I came to one roundabout where there were 3 seperate signs indicating the direction to a larger town which was on my route. One was via the motorway, one was a truck route and the other was a local route. All 3 were the wrong way! The correct route was a little harder identify and went through smaller towns via some poorly marked lesser roads. Trying to determine the correct route has been my curse and may prove to be my undoing!
I arrive in Fougeres just after 10 pm and start to look for a hotel. It was a long last 10 km into town and now the search for a hotel adds to my day. I finally find a Campanile Hotel on the south side of town. All of the restaurants are now closed so I will have to be satisfied snacking on my remaining food for dinner. It doesn’t really matter that much, I am beat and I fall asleep right after a shower.
Okay, its time to ride! Due to time limitations I will be unable to start in Paris, so I will pick up where I left off last year in Loudeac. That is where Clair and I abandoned the event after falling ill. It is my intention to continue on from here to Brest and then return. I will follow the official route and try to finish it in the time that I have. I will be staying in hotels along the way and travelling during daylight hours only.
I was enthusiastic about getting started but it took some time to get ready. Once the bike was set to go I needed to get some food for the trip. This is where the first flaw in my plan was revealed. It was Sunday, and being Sunday in France all of the shops are closed. We were able to find an open bar where they served us a late breakfast, but they had no food otherwise. When I asked where I could find a sandwich the proprietor seemed confused by the request. I was told that they don't sell sandwiches on Sunday in France. I convinced them of my need for a sandwich so the barkeeper went home and found some bread, ham and cheese and came back and made one for me. I have experienced this kind of hospitality each time I visit France.
Now I was prepared to go. Leaving from the controle location at St. Joseph College in Loudeac I headed towards the center of town where I hoped to find the correct route. This is where the second flaw in my plan was revealed. Navigation was going to be much harder than I had expected. The road signs are very inadequate and without course markings or other riders to follow, you are never really quite sure that you are going the right way. This then forces a lot of stops to try and verify the choice of direction. This in turn slows your progress dramatically and I began to worry that I would not be able to cover my planned distances for each day. Other obstacles to my progress appeared as well, first a flat tire, then I was stopped by the gendarmes to allow a local bike race to pass. My search for food and water also caused delays and it was getting later in the day than I had expected. Then there was the wind! The wind was brisk and relentless, and right in my face all day. I was happy to be on my way to Brest however regardless of my pace.
I arrived in Carhaix in the afternoon and had the same problem finding supplies. My only choices seemed to be McDonalds and a BP station. I stopped at both and tried to make the best of it. Leaving Carhaix the route is quite appealing and I enjoyed this section, even with the climb up to Roc Trevezel.
The days are long here at this time of year but maybe not long enough. My original plan was to go from Loudeac to Brest and then back to Carhaix for the night. As the day wore on though I began to see that I would not be able to meet that schedule. I was now hoping simply to make it to Brest for the night. At times even that seemed to be questionable. Navigation difficulties, the search for food, wind and other delays had put me well behind. Finally around midnight I pulled into downtown Brest. It is a long uphill into town and I had yet to find a hotel. I pretty much took the first one that I found, a 2 star hotel in the middle of town. It actually wasn't too bad and there was a food stand nearby that was still open. I was pretty much done for the day.



Another day another 400 k, that’s pretty much how 7 randonneurs approached this day’s ride. All but 1 rider was experienced at this distance and 3 in the group were using this ride as preparation for the Cascade 1200 in a few weeks. It was good to have a solid group of riders.
The route immediately started on a climb right out of Hurricane and then continued east into the rising sun. About 20 miles out riders crossed the state line and into Arizona. The Arizona RBA might have been offended for this encroachment but she was on the ride and offered no complaints to me. The towns of Colorado City, Pipe Springs, Fredonia and Kanab all wheeled by without incident. Just past Kanab the climbing started again up to Coral Pink Sand Dunes junction followed by a swift descent to Mt. Carmel junction. After that, more climbing and more exotic locations, Orderville, Glendale and Todd’s Junction all marked points on the climb up the Grand Staircase, the predominant geographic feature of this region. This passage follows the course of the Virgin River up to its headwaters beginning with the deep red sandstone common to the Zion area on up to the white cliffs and Hoodoos of Bryce Canyon. Once at Todd’s Junction however you enter into the Great Basin and begin following the Sevier River for the next 50 miles. The elevation is now over 7000 feet and even though it is June, temperatures are quite pleasant. Ponderosa Pines and green meadows are the rule in this area.

Just outside the town of Hatch we had our first incident, a call for assistance. It seems that one rider had eaten something bad and was throwing up at the side of the road. The RBA rescue squad responded and within an hour or so was on the scene. Apparently if you have an open flask of gel, keep it in your car for a few years and then eat it you will get an upset tummy. I guess even experienced randonneurs can learn something new occasionally.
The weather continued to be good and even the winds were often favorable. Once riders turned south again along I-15 they had a fast section with a good tailwind. That gave them a break and a chance to rest a bit while cruising along at 25 mph. Darkness fell again somewhere between Parowan and Cedar City for most riders but they still kept a good pace. From here on in with the exception of a bit of interstate highway the roads were mostly quiet rural roads with little traffic. That made one less thing to worry about for this tired bunch riding in the dark.

Back in Hurricane at RBA headquarters I began my vigil, waiting for the riders to show up. I was hoping not to get any more calls for assistance so I didn’t have to abandon my post, mostly so I could get a nap in. Eventually the first riders turned up at 2:00 am and the next riders a few minutes later, while the last pair rolled in at 3:20 am. All were in surprisingly good spirits considering that they had just been on the bike for 21 hours or so.
Overall the ride went well. The weather had been good, traffic was light, there were few mechanicals and everyone except the vintage energy gel eater finished the ride. Congratulations to all who participated in this challenging event!